Most jersey knits stretch at least 25 - 50% horizontally. ITY (Interlock Twist Yarn) jersey typically stretches up to 50% in both directions, giving it four-way stretch recovery that makes it one of the more versatile options for draped garments. The collection here spans ITY, Matte, Rayon, Rayon Spandex, Satin, Foil, and Glitter jersey, covering everything from everyday separates to performance costumes and eveningwear.
Zelouf Fabrics is a third-generation fabric wholesaler and go-to source for fashion designers, dressmakers, event planners, and home sewers worldwide.
Jersey Fabric Types: Which One Is Right for Your Project?
Not all jersey fabrics behave the same way, fiber content, yarn construction, and finish determine how a fabric drapes, stretches, and holds up through wear and washing. Understanding the distinctions before you cut saves both yardage and frustration.
ITY Jersey is built from two yarns twisted together before knitting, which produces a fabric with four-way stretch recovery, fluid drape, and minimal edge-curling. That last point matters, ITY resists the edge-curling common in single-knit cotton jersey, making it a more forgiving option for less experienced sewers. It is a strong pick for maxi dresses, wrap tops, and dancewear. For projects that need more body, heavy ITY jersey adds weight without sacrificing drape.
Matte jersey carries a lower sheen and a slightly heavier hand than standard ITY, with good opacity. It is a common choice for professional separates, modest-wear garments, and any project where a flat, refined surface is preferable to a lustrous one.
Rayon jersey is knitted from viscose (rayon) fibers, producing an exceptionally soft hand and fluid drape. Stretch recovery is lower than polyester blends, so it suits flowy tops and summer dresses rather than fitted or high-movement garments.
Rayon spandex jersey adds elastane to the rayon base, restoring the recovery that plain rayon lacks. The result is a fabric that combines softness and drape with the stretch retention needed for fitted garments and activewear.
Specialty finishes round out the collection. Foil jersey applies a metallic foil layer over an ITY base, suited for evening and performance pieces. Glitter jersey carries an all-over sparkle finish used widely in dancewear and costume construction. Satin jersey combines a satin-faced surface with jersey stretch, a useful pairing for draped eveningwear that needs to move with the body.
Sewing with Jersey Fabric: Tips for Best Results
Jersey fabric’s stretch is its greatest asset, and its biggest sewing challenge if you are using the wrong tools. A few targeted adjustments to your setup will prevent the most common problems, skipped stitches, wavy seams, and stretched-out edges.
Needle selection is the first decision. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, which has a rounded tip that passes between knit loops rather than piercing them. Size 75/11 suits lightweight ITY and rayon jersey; size 90/14 is the right call for heavy ITY jersey and heavier double-knit constructions.
Stitch type matters as much as needle choice. A straight stitch will pop under tension because it has no give. Use a zigzag stitch set to a width of 1.5 - 2.5, or a dedicated stretch stitch if your machine offers one. Either option allows the seam to flex with the fabric.
Serger setup is worth the extra step on lightweight jersey. A serger or overlocker with differential feed set slightly above 1.0 prevents the wavy seams that result from the feed dogs stretching the fabric as it moves through the machine.
Cutting on grain keeps your finished piece stable. Cut pieces parallel to the selvage for lengthwise stability, and avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while cutting, even slight distortion at this stage compounds through construction.
One practical note, ITY jersey resists edge-curling better than single-knit cotton jersey, which is why it is often recommended as a starting point for sewers new to knit fabrics. Order a swatch before committing to yardage if you are working with a new construction.
Frequently Asked Questions About Jersey Fabric
What is jersey fabric made of?
Jersey can be made from cotton, polyester, rayon, or blends that include spandex or elastane. The fiber content determines stretch, drape, and care requirements. Polyester-based ITY jersey is the most wrinkle-resistant option; rayon jersey is the softest and most drapey.
Is jersey fabric stretchy?
Yes. Most jersey knits stretch at least 25% horizontally. ITY jersey offers up to 50% stretch in both directions (four-way stretch), while matte jersey typically stretches primarily in the crosswise direction.
How do you wash jersey fabric?
Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water. Tumble dry on low heat or lay flat to dry to prevent shrinkage and preserve stretch recovery. Avoid high heat, which can damage elastane fibers and cause pilling in polyester blends. Always check the product page for fiber-specific care guidance before washing.
What is the difference between jersey and interlock fabric?
Both are knit fabrics, but interlock is knitted from two interlocked rib structures, making it thicker, more stable, and identical on both sides. Jersey has a distinct face and back and is generally lighter and more drapey than interlock.
What garments is jersey fabric best for?
T-shirts, maxi dresses, wrap dresses, leggings, activewear, dancewear, and draped tops are all natural fits for jersey. Heavier double-knit jersey works for structured skirts and casual blazers where a knit fabric needs to hold its shape through wear.